1827 14th Street about 1895. Copyright C Kozel |
Just about the time a local Dupont bar owner was being subjected to intense scrutiny by the ANC for a possible expansion a few years ago, a reader of my Scenes of the Past column for the InTowner contacted me with fantastic pictures of a large bar once owned by his ancestor. The timing was perfect: who would have guessed that in the 1890s a bar with live music and over 200 outdoor seats existed right in the same neighborhood as one being protested today?
History
does indeed repeat itself, and often. Over
110 years ago, bar fights, liquor license protests, and yes, even lateral
expansion of bars into adjoining spaces were all topics in the 1890s. Washington
is not usually touted as a city of immigrants or industry, but it does in fact
have a rich history of both; its history is often taught without any mention of
breweries, bottling companies and beer gardens, but the truth is that in the
1870s and 1880s all Washingtonians could easily walk to a German-owned beer garden no
matter where they lived in the city.
One
of the largest and most popular of these was located at 1827 14th Street, in
the heart of today’s U Street neighborhood, in a building where today people
shop for upscale furniture. In 1897 —
not 2012 — it seems that everyone in what was then an emerging neighborhood at
14th and S Streets drank at the saloon; that year alone, 1,700 of its patrons,
men and women, signed a petition to keep what was then known as Kozel’s beer
garden open and freely flowing with beer.
Rooftop Garden with Band Stage. Copyright C Kozel. |
It
was owned by German born George Kozel, who like many of today’s bar owners,
faced continual pressure to close from those in the minority not willing to
imbibe one of the many products of locally brewed beer. George Kozel’s father,
John C. Kozel, had established one of the first known breweries in Washington
in 1856, located at 9th and M Streets, NW.
In 1861, he opened a brewery
complex in Square 617, bounded by First, Second, N and M Streets, NW. It was an “extensive brewery and [he]
commenced the manufacture of weiss beer,” according to his obituary.
The
complex also had a residence for the Kozel family at 43 N Street, NW. Stoneware beer bottles embossed with the name
John Kozel are prized by collectors of breweriana today. John Kozel had been born in Württemberg,
Germany in 1822, and immigrated in 1856 to the United States and to Washington,
DC with his wife of eight years, Christiana, along with their children George,
Paulina, and Caroline.
Rooftop garden overlooking 14th Street. Copyright C Kozel |
Their
youngest son, Charles, was born in Washington in October of 1858.Kozel joined
the Union army in the Civil War, serving with Loeffler’s Company Militia
Infantry, 8th Battalion, organized on April 11, 1861 in Washington for the
defense of the city. It was led by
fellow brewer Ernst A. Loeffler, who owned a large brewery and beer garden next
to the Kozel’s on land which is now somewhat ironically the New York Avenue
Playground.
John
Kozel died on January 30, 1881, and was buried in Prospect Hill cemetery; his
wife died in 1887. Their son, George Frederick Kozel, had joined his father’s
brewery business, and by 1890 had opened a saloon at 1827 14th Street, between
S and T Streets, NW, according to the City Directory.
He
had been born on February 12, 1851 in his father’s hometown in Germany, and
first lived above the saloon with his second wife, DC native Katie M. Meyer.
They had married in 1885, and later moved to a house close by at 2233 13th
Street that still exists. Kozel’s saloon
expanded to the rear yard and second floor at 1827 14th Street, offering full
German meals and a special room for women patrons.
Ground Floor of Kozel's. Copyright C Kozel. |
A mention
of the beer garden was included in the July 4, 1903 edition of the Washington
Post, during what was a notably hot summer, that stated it was one of the
“coolest spots in Washington. . . . the proprietor of this cozy resort takes
pride in seeing that his patrons are served with the best of everything. A
delightful musical programme is a nightly feature and one that is greatly
enjoyed by its many patrons.” An
interior wall of the saloon featured faux rock and heavy vines to add to the
grotto-like atmosphere.
Newspaper
headlines from December of 1894 are not all that different than what might be
reported about DC’s bars in 2012, 110 years later. On December 1, 1894, Edward
McQueeney entered Kozel’s saloon with two others, and soon began a fight with barkeeper
Abraham Wolf, who responded by throwing a glass of beer in his face, cutting
McQueeney’s face.
A
trial ensued, and the judge in the case declared to Wolf, “You knew the men
were drunk and you sold them liquor and made them drunker. . . . this habit of
regarding . . . bar room paraphernalia as lawful weapons because they are handy
has got more than one man into trouble” (Washington Post). Wolf was fined $50 for his assault.
Just
20 days later, married owner George Kozel himself ran afoul of the law when he
was charged with assault on patron Mollie Cosgrove, who lived at 69 Defrees
Street. “The plaintiff alleges that Mr. Kozel . . . kissed her and made other
improper demonstrations toward her.” (Washington Post, December 21, 1894). Kozel was released on $100 bond.
Today’s
often automatic practice of protesting the liquor licenses is also not a recent
phenomenon. In January of 1897, the Anti-Saloon League targeted Kozel’s beer
garden when its license was due for renewal by what was then known as the
Excise Board simply because it was one of the most popular drinking
establishments in the area.
The
January 16, 1897 Washington Post reported, “The German-American Union has taken
the case up and proposes to defend the garden, one of their favorite resorts,
and which they consider a ‘blessing in hot weather.’ A petition signed by 1,700
patrons of Mr. Kozel’s place was filed with the board, stating that they
desired the garden continued.”
Geyer's Renovation and Expansion. Copyright Paul K. Williams |
In
1897, owner George Kozel wouldn’t have known that his expansion into the
adjoining building at 1825 14th Street would be known as controversial “lateral
expansion” over 110 years later by the Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC) Board. His open air rooftop beer garden had well over
100 chairs and a stage for live music that was performed nightly in an era when
Washingtonians had open windows all summer long.
In
May of 1897, the Anti-Saloon League again targeted Kozel’s license when they
reported that he had expanded laterally without a proper license. They apparently
lost their case, as the beer garden would flourish for another 15 years. In fact, the vast success of his beer garden
led Kozel to enroll in an animal husbandry course at Cornell University to
learn how to raise his own chickens to meet the demands of his hungry
customers.
Geyers Interior, after renovation and expansion. Copyright Paul K. Williams |
Sadly,
however, Kozel died of a skin infection in Ithaca, New York on February 26,
1907. One of his pallbearers, Fred H. Geyer, took over the beer garden and
renamed it after himself. Geyer remodeled the ground floor of 1825-1827 14th
Street beginning in January of 1914 at a cost between $30,000 and $50,000,
according to newspaper accounts.
Goyer’s
beer garden was described in the October 22, 1933 Washington Post by John J.
Daly as “the dandy of all beer gardens -- Geyer’s. Out in the back yard,
covered with gravel that per-sistently got in low shoes, a band blared away
while waiters rushed to and fro with seidels, steins, and schooners. Geyer’s
was the Mecca for young love; for the young blades of the day. It was packed
and jammed nightly.”
1827 14th Street Today |
Geyer,
however, apparently overextended himself, and declared bankruptcy in April of
1914. Geyer maintained the beer garden, however, but witnessed an interruption
in his liquor license in October of 1916, “on the grounds that women drank in
the summer or winter garden” according to the Washington Post.
His
business only had weeks left, however, as an auction of all the liquor took
place on the premises on October 31, 1917 (at which time one of the bidders was
robbed of $200). The following day, November 1, 1917, a local prohibition law
took effect in Washington, known as the Sheppard Act -- a full three years
before the 18th Amendment was enacted that banned alcohol for the next 13
years.
Denied
a livelihood from the sale of beer, Geyer leased part of the building to the
Ajax Rubber Company beginning in 1920. In January of 1921, he closed the ‘dry’
restaurant and the entire building was leased to the Boston Auto Top Company, a
manufacturer of retractable automobile tops. In 1931, the building was leased
to Sears, Roebuck, and Company, which opened a branch to sell tires and
automobile accessories.
Copyright Paul K. Williams
Photographs Copyright Cris Kozel, used with
permission, and Paul K. Williams.
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